I did get around to the hand plane this week. Most of the rust and grot is off and now I need to lap the sole as best I can.
If there’s still a bit of rust left somewhere . . . I don’t actually care. It’s a 1970s Canadian-made Stanley Craftsman plane, which means that it’s effectively worthless. I just want it in good enough shape not to leave rust streaks on whatever I’m trying to plane. In five years or so, I expect I’ll either have given up on woodworking or bought a higher-quality replacement.
(I also need to fix a chair, which I didn’t quite get to today.)
That’s a big help, thank you! I spent some time on it today and I think I figured out what’s actually leaking, but this kit should make it easier to just repair it
Reattaching my towel rack to my wall. It was held in with drywall anchors but those have failed so will either repatch and reattach or glue it back on. Depends on how done with it I am
Ideally yes… This is a previous owners mistake I’m fixing. My options here are: reattach back using another drywall anchor (not my preferred option). Anchor one side into a stud and if the other side reaches it the other side into another stud and patch the holes or glue it back in place (again not ideal). I’m leaning towards option B here.
Was going to try to get the rust off my father’s crappy old hand plane (since restoring it would get me out of having to buy a hand plane of my own for now), but it doesn’t look like I’m going to get that far this week. Spent a couple of hours moving books around to clear some shelf space instead.
I recently finished my butcher block desk and enjoyed it so much I asked for a bunch of wood working tools as birthday gifts. I don’t usually care about my birthday or gifts, but it’s always an ordeal for my family because they insist. So this year I finally told them to get the wood working basics.
I’m eyeing my second project now and trying not to tell myself that it should be the new coffee table that we’ve needed for the past 3 years. That feels like a more advanced project, but it’s so tempting.
The one I have doesn’t fit through the strainer, I’ll try to locate a thinner one, or some of those hair removal ziptie lookalikes (it likely isn’t hair stuck down there, but who knows).
It’s got one of those flexible ribbed pipes that keeps holding onto everything, and whoever installed the bathtub had the amazing idea of fully encasing it in brick and large tiles, with no access left to replace the pipe. To add insult to injury, the pipe is attached to the bathtub by a single screw going through a metal strainer, so no way to properly shove in a pipe cleaner without it coming detached and falling under the bathtub… inside the encased part; even if I managed to fish it out afterwards, no way it’s going to match the gasket again. The toilet is also so close to it, that even to try breaking the tile and brick to get to the pipe, one would have to remove the toilet first.
I’ve poured in some “gel drain cleaner”, left it for a while, washed it out, and some plunger action seemed to move some stuff around, but it was still slow. Poured some caustic soda, which outgassed pretty nicely, and the plunger worked some more, but I’d say it’s still less than 50% there.
I’m torn as to what to try next, whether some HCl, bleach, or sulfuric, but the strainer is metal and I don’t want to make it look worse than it already does. Could try more of the gel and/or soda, but I think they might’ve already done all they were to do.
It’s and apartment, so that would require access from the common collector. It is possible, some neighbors did it (to locate a leak they caused by DIY “re-tiling” the bathroom with a jackhammer, not kidding), but it takes a long snake to reach even the bottom floor.
For now at least it drains. I’ll try and locate a thinner snake, or some of those “hair removal” ziptie lookalikes.
I live in a rented apartment and since we moved in one of the (IKEA) bedroom closets has been horrible built.
The landlord commented that the previous tenant had taken them down, but put them back together when they moved out.
Didn’t look to closely but it was always a bit wobbly. In part thanks to covid we’ve ended up living here longer than planned and the closet was now almost tipping over, so I decided to take action.
Just disassembled it and apart from the back plates being taped together and held in with about 6 nails each, three of which was at the bottom, the upper shelf turned out to not be from this closet.
It has a label from IKEA and says it’s a kitchen shelf.
Took out the tape measure and sure enough. It’s 5mm to wide, and at least 3mm to deep.
Too late to do anything about it now, it’s 10’o clock, but it amazes me at the shit people do.
No wonder the cabinet doors aligned poorly and all.
If it’s a standard style toilet that’s more than 10 years old, I would recommend one of these kits: www.lowes.com/pd/…/5001419031
I’ve been chasing small leaks and it running when it wasn’t supposed to for a couple years now. I eventually bought the above kit and I wish I would have done that from the beginning. It replaces everything that leaks (except for the wax ring), was easy to install with good instructions, and came with all the needed tools. Now no more leaks, uses less water while still flushing as good, and is quieter overall. I also replaced the water line from the valve to the tank at the same time, That was another $4.
Starting the refinish job on our front porch. Got my broom and sander and some dry weather in the forecast, hopefully it’ll be finished before the next storm rolls through!
