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Wwwbdd ,

Not sure how cold it gets where you are and how much heat you’re adding in, but I’m guessing the reason for the mesh instead of fascia is to give some ventilation to the roof

Honestly it probably doesn’t matter if you close it up, sacrifice a little rot and ice buildup for your comfort, you said yourself this is just some barn structure, you’re not going to wreck it overnight

I’m in Canada, up here we like ventilation in our attic spaces to take away the condensation as warm humid air from inside cools where it meets cold outside air, so you’d normally want a vented soffit with a nice air path leading out the top of your roof, minimizes ice buildup.

For this, you have vaulted ceilings and it looks like basically no space for insulation+ventilation between the inside ceilings and the roof deck, so without knowing your climate or how things are built there I’m betting they saw moisture building up in that eave and removed the fascia to let it breathe

Close it up if you want, I wouldn’t bother foaming it, and if you notice things are too wet just take the boards off. Again, you won’t wreck it overnight.

Insight OP ,

I live in Washington State. Yeah I don’t know if it was like this originally or if the previous owners just stuck the netting on there to stop animals from getting in.

You’re right that there isn’t really any space between the ceiling and roof. The venting is the main thing I’m concerned about and moisture. I think things are already a bit wet to begin with because of the trees, moss, and pine needles that like piling up. Maybe I’ll try to take a closer look behind the sheet rock and see what is going on.

Thanks for the input and recommendation. There are 2 skylights at the eve and a door which you can see in one of the pics. If you think that would make any difference with anything.

Insight OP ,

Been reading up on things and found finehomebuilding.com/…/a-crash-course-in-roof-ven… which also seems to mention some of the stuff you said.

It just feels weird to me to just board up a potential issue.

Wwwbdd ,

Oh it’s almost certainly creating issues by boarding it up, but what’s the point of the structure if it can’t be enjoyed properly? I’m taking this for what it is, a barn/shed and not their primary residence. It’s not worth it to rebuild the whole roof. I’ve been a contractor for 18 years, went to school for it and did some building science so this is very much in my wheelhouse. Between the options of do nothing and have to deal with spiders/cold, or try something and keep an eye out for rot, I say go for the latter

Insight OP ,

Would your recommendation change if I am trying to change it into more of an office/work space. I own a small business and I hope to use the barn/shed as the main work area, it will have things like a laser engraver, computer, various materials used to engrave etc.

I am not doubting your recommendation or anything like that, I am just trying to get a full understanding of the situation and possible consequences or possible cheaper fixes. For example, would something like taking the sheetrock down (see what is behind it) and possibly add some vapor barriers with a thin airgap between the roof and the conditioned space. I guess similar to firring strips?

I guess I was hoping there might be a cheaper alternative to replacing the roof but would still reduce the risk of rot or condensation inside. I guess I could potentially seal up loft making it an unconditioned space and only accessible from the external door in the gable (which is visible in one of the pics) as a fall back if it really concerns me.

Wwwbdd ,

For example, would something like taking the sheetrock down (see what is behind it) and possibly add some vapor barriers with a thin airgap between the roof and the conditioned space. I guess similar to firring strips?

That’s pretty much it. If you’re willing to go to the trouble, remove the wood soffit and replace it with vented, put in a wood fascia, tear out the ceiling from the inside, create an airspace that goes right up to the ridge and vents out the top, then rebuild the ceiling

You want it to go from outside-in: roof deck, ventilation, insulation, vapor barrier, interior finish. How much space you’re willing it lose vs how much insulation and air space is up to you. Again, my experience is building in cold climates, not wet ones

Insight OP ,

Here is another picture showing the insulation and how it connects to the grate that I showed in one of the original pictures. I don’t see any rot or anything like that but it’s also never had heat running in it before, which I assume would make things worse. The fact it leads straight to where the insulation with no gap or anything feels all kinds of wrong… Would something like baffles be helpful? I could potentially push them behind the insulation to open a gap between the roof deck and insulation.

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/58e576bf-c178-4aa4-977b-3f3f42dcfe14.jpeg

Wwwbdd ,

Baffles will do it If you’re willing to do the work, and based on the fact you’re already ripping holes in walls, I guess you might be

Tear out the wall, baffles against the roof deck in each cavity. At the ridge you’ll need ventilation for the air to escape, ridge venting or otherwise. I’d add 2x3s or 2x4s running horizontally on 16s. You could also just lay them all overtop the existing rafters but if you’ve gone to this point you might as well do it horizontal to avoid the thermal bridging. Laying over top is easier to insulate, up to you. Next insulate, then vapor barrier. I’d use acoustic sealant at the perimeter of your vapor barrier, it’s sticky messy stuff but will help immensely with warm air leakage

Insight OP ,

I had to take down a horrible staircase one of the previous owners stuck in which was put in seemingly before sheet rock so the sheet rock was fitted to the stairs which lead to holes in the sheet rock. The one I took the picture out of is part of that.

What do you mean by horizontal and avoiding “thermal bridging” if you have any diagram that could possibly help I would appreciate it. I figure if I am going to fix up the structure I might as well try to fix any moisture issues and sheet rock isn’t too expensive… Most likely it will be a longer project that I slowly work on the next couple months if I decide to go further than I already have.

Wwwbdd ,

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/2d94c6fb-70a0-4bd0-8299-e783a2e27f0e.png

That’s what I mean by running some framing horizontally, put a new set of studs horizontally over top the existing studs. Thermal bridging is the ease that the cold moves through your framing. On frosty mornings you can sometimes see where the trusses are on a roof up because the cold moves more easily through the stud vs the insulation. More info on that here. You have 2 options once you install the baffles, either nail a 2x3 directly over the existing rafters to make the wall 1.5" deeper giving room for insulation + baffle, or run the new framing horizontal. Horizontal makes insulating much harder but it gives a bit of a thermal break from the interior drywall to the rafter touching the exterior roof deck.

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