Plantjam is correct. My electrician installed a main panel on my hardieboard and used 14-Gauge Electro-galvanized Half Slot Channel Struts to mount to. They mounted the struts horizontally through the Hardieboard into the sheathing/studs, caulking the screw penetrations. They then mounted the circuit breaker panel to the struts.You my need to add spacers.
Thanks for the response. The barrier I choose isn’t permeable. I live in a moderate climate. We do get the occasional snow which melts within a few days. My house is pretty leaky at the moment, so the walls will be able to dry from the inside. I would like to use mineral wool in some areas (like near my grill) but it isn’t available in large sheets in my area and its R value per inch isn’t quite as good as the Poly, so I opted to go with Poly in most areas.
Yes, I could place the L flashing behind the furring strips (mentioned in my previous reply), but my hesitation there is I wanted to have a full shield of layered tape and wrap all the way up the wall and I didn’t really want to put wrap on top of the insulation because I didn’t trust that none of the penetrations I would need to make for the furring strips and siding wouldn’t leak. I saw in one video where they were doing 4" of insulation they put the rain barrier 2" back between the two insulation layers. I think this would be a good solution but the install is a bit more complicated when doing multiple layers of insulation. To do this I could have done two 1" layers instead of just 1 2" layer and put the flashing between the two layers.
On further research it seems that in this case I could have brought the polystyrene all the way down to the roof deck and flashed it with the shingles (cutting them back 2") to make the front of the polystyrene the rain barrier. Assuming I could do a good enough job to guarantee no water penetrated behind it. This would prevent the need for the 2"x1.5" board all together and the gap all the way to the sheathing which would be a big source for thermal bridging and transfer. Not sure I am confident enough to take this approach though and the flashing has already been installed by the roofer.
So my question remains, how big should the gap be above the shingles.
I have to confirm that mastic plus aluminum tape is the way to go. The mastic will help fill the gap and protect the tape from drying out and peeling away. Be sure to clean it thoroughly so the tape will stick long term. Be generous with the tape as over time it may begin to fail. Mastic is doubly important if you have condensation issues. And if that is the case, or the duct work is in unconditioned space, you should consider insulating and covering the duct work.
My wife and I just had to replace our dishwasher. She did a lot of research and to my surprise ended up going with a high end Samsung. We just got it installed and it washes fine and is super quiet, can hardly tell it is even running. We did get the extended warranty, we have not always had good luck with appliances in the past
