More generally speaking try to limit your dryer use. It just adds wear and tear on your clothes and costs money to use. Hang dry when you can.
That’s really the best answer.
Note as well that if air drying is not an option, the ventless dryers are much gentler on clothes than vented dryers because they don’t run at high temps. So clothes last longer.
They barely exist in the US. Europe is far ahead in this regard. In Europe you won’t even find one of those extremely wasteful vented dryers in most shops.
I did some research on the US market for ventless dryers. The pricing is terrible but if climate matters to you, you will take the hit. One thing that really disturbed me is among the few that are available in the US, only a couple of them is not part of the #internetOfShit. So if you want a dryer that does not connect to the network options are very limited. All the non-discontinued Miele models are “smart”, but this one might be worth a look because it’s 110v and not designed to be on a network. Some Whirlpool ones are wifi-free (this was the biggest one I found but it requires 220v). And indeed it’s hard to find ventless dryers in normal sizes. Most are ½ the size of vented dryers.
(edit)
If you don’t find a suitable ventless dryer, consider putting a dehumidifier in a closet & make that the drying closet. You could perhaps rig up a drain so you don’t have to empty tanks of water.
I sometimes pour a kettle of boiling water down the kitchen drain to melt the fats. I recall seeing a youtube video of a guy boiling pvc fittings to separate them and reuse them, which caused some concern for my habit of pouring boiling water down. But he had to boil those fittings in a pot for like 30 min with all sides of the fitting getting heat, so I’m not worried.
Budget permitting, it’s best to pour the hot water down ~15-20 min before going to bed, then just before going to bed pour ~50—100ml of enzymes. Enzyme-based maintenence cleaning is most effective when the sludge they will consume is warm. Let the enzymes feast on the nasties all night long.
Does the shutoff valve have to be in the shower? Could it be moved to the other side of a wall outside of the shower?
The valve joins a steel pipe to PEX. Both pipes are still bedded in concrete even though I cleared away the concrete that the valve was embedded in. The valve could be moved but the pipe joints remain in place because it would be too big of a project to unbury all of it, cut the steel pipe & thread it, etc. So if I move the valve the box would still need to be accessible in case the joints fail.
I need to update that other thread. I’ve already drilled a 14mm hole in the wall and ran a shaft through it which is now attached to a right angle gearbox mounted on the new valve, which has a replaceable cartridge. So what’s left to do is getting a custom handle on the shaft that goes through the wall and I need to build the box.
While you could cut a V and bend the board, I would not trust it to be waterproof and you would need to seal it with the sealant anyway
I think this is where the different kinds of boards differ. Some tests¹ demonstrate Wedi is not waterproof but Schluter KERDI and another brand is. This guy says KERDI board can be scored and snapped to fit into a car, and unfolded at installation and it maintains its waterproof properties.
If I opt for foam board then it would probably be Wedi so indeed it would theoretically need a waterproofing system on top. I say theoretically because I don’t think the shower is waterproof to begin with (it’s apparently tile directly on concrete rendered over brick). But I should still probably practice doing it right.
it would probably be stronger to just do a butt joint with sealant.
I’ve noticed construction board is fastened using a big washer of sorts and a screw through it. If the board is 10—15mm thick and I use those washers on a corner, they would overhang. I suppose I could cut the overhung portions off with an angle grinder. I’m also unclear on how strong the joint is if a screw is driven just into the foam to fasten the butt joint. Wouldn’t the screw pull out without much force? Perhaps I’ll use a 2×3cm piece of wood on the inside corner and screw both boards to that since I have that wood on hand.
Or when you say “with sealant”, do you mean no screws and sealant alone?
not sure I linked the right video.. I can’t access videos right now to verify.
I’m building a small box in the shower which I will tile over. The box will cover a valve and must be semi-accessible. The valve will actually be controlled from the other side of the wall, so the box need not be opened routinely -- only if the fitting leaks or goes bad will access be needed.
I have an unlimited free supply of Ikea pressboard because neighbors throw it away daily. But I would not use it in a shower. Ikea pressboard is like a sponge with water. It’s also too thick. I have rigid space constraints. No limit on the box height, but the walls of the box must be thin (e.g. 10—15mm thick is what I have in mind). The construction board seems well suited for wet areas.
This is the old box, which was previously a solid block of concrete:
My building style is to make everything accessible and servicable. So in that pic you see a floor tile around the box. That tile is actually removable. I went to great lengths to give a solid mating subfloor but without gluing it down. So if needed I can just remove the caulking around that tile and get under the showerpan. This is why the box walls must be thin. If the box is big enough to overlap the floor tile, then it would ruin the accessibility of the floor tile. Unless I somehow figure out how to make the entire box easily removable.. then it wouldn’t matter if it rested on the floor tile.
indeed buffet was my first thought too because it would give the extra countertop space he wants. But otoh, he doesn't want to bend over for the extra storage. There could be cabinets above the buffet though.
i had the same problem with a front-load machine. Feet seemed to be even, but the machine pivots clockwise about left front foot causing it to screw in (and shorten), which then worsens as it goes. My fix was to lengthen that foot more so that it seems to bear more load than the other three feet. I don’t consider it a permanent fix because that leg still manages to eventually get shorter anyway, but takes much longer.
I guess my next move is to drill a hole in a circular piece of wood giving a donut-like shape, and use that as a spacer to stop that foot from shortening under vibration.
I’ve seen them on the “security group” for boilers in Europe as a pressure release valve. There’s a thick spring inside which is what makes it hard to turn. The instructions say to open that valve once a month and verify that water discharges. If no water discharges, then it means the pressure relief will not function when something else goes wrong and the pressure gets out of control.
I’ve not seen orange nobs anywhere else, but different regions may differ. Orange is just one color by one maker. I’ve noticed sometimes they are green, red, or yellow.
Yeah, that’s a decent hack. Though it requires creating the same magazine locally (fair enough), but if there already is a local magazine that’s federated to that other instance, then it’s complicated.
I guess I’m not clear on how federated magazines work. Suppose we have:
domainX.social/m/immigration
domainY.social/m/immigration
domainZ.social/m/immigration
and someone locally creates a local.social/m/[email protected]. Does that mean we can still create a an unfederated local.social/m/immigration? Or can multiple federated magazines be combined in the same local mag?
And what if domainY has a right wing extremist anti-immigration slant which we don’t want. But we want domainZ’s version but domainZ has federated with domainY?
This is my understanding as well, @a@kbin.social¹. And with this understanding, I concur with @anonymouse:
they made things overly complicated
Indeed. It’s not a meaningful separation particularly when the microblogs have no significant enforcement of being “micro”. The /feeling/ I get is that kbin threads (which are very poorly named as @s6original discovered) are for high effort often lengthy content with a graphic, formatting, and more thought-out content. But kbin supports formatting in both which makes them redundant.
I suspect if someone makes a lot of short off-the-cuff “threads” a moderator might want to have a word with them.
@Damage I’m tempted to get a valve with a replaceable cartridge even though I hope to make the fitting accessible anyway— just because it seems like a smarter design.
What do you call that kind of valve?
I tried an image search for “water valve with replaceable cartridge” & most hits were taps & shower mixers. A local shop had one that looked kind of like this. The lower portion was simpler, but the handle is the same. My concern is that the handle is designed for a human hand and I would actually be running a steel rod to the handle so I can control it from an adjacent room. Most valves seem to have a removable handle so you can easily attach a tool to it.
I would like to find one that has a removable handle and a removable cartridge for full versatility.
Interesting concept. I’m glad to be aware of that option. However, I have very low confidence of any fitting that attaches to PEX. So I would still want the joint of the fitting relatively unburied as well. One side of the valve is galvanized pipe. I suppose I could replace the PEX with steel as well and then join the PEX to the steel under the showerpan. I’ll have to keep that in mind.