Oh thank you! I will make weekly progress updates on the project 👍
The cellar is at the furthest corner of the property and therefore must be completed first, so we can haul the building materials. The neighboring plots are 3m (10ft) higher so it's tucked cleanly in a corner that would have been useless otherwise.
It's 2.75m wide, 3.75m long and the middle is 2.35m high.
The vaulted ceiling will be completely buried, and the front entryway will be cladded with wood in the style a hobbit hole. The details aren't set in stone yet, we take a challenge at a time.
Thank you! Wine definitely, probably also plant bulbs in the winter, root vegetables... we have a passive house built on a concrete slab, every room is 19°-23°C all year round, it's too warm for those.
Yes great idea, I'll go to the engraving company to have a stone inscribed with our names and the year, it will feel nice to leave something tangible behind, and maybe burry a time capsule too.
It feels like a very specific print because it's literally for this wrench but guess I'm going to post them when I am done with all the tools. Follow me on printables I guess. I use the same username for printables and thingiverse that I use here.
I like this kind of video. I think he could've kept it even more basic though.
Imo, the isopropyl alcohol is unnecessary. Just clean your surfaces and keep them dry afterward. Any potential pathogen needs water to multiply. Take that away and their numbers will be limited to a safe level.
Disinfection is superfluous if you adhere to clean+dry, and it is useless if you clean but leave surfaces wet
I used isopropyl for a bit and found it highly underwhelming. It wasn't great for cleaning and it evaporated way to quick. It has it's uses but not in the house cleaning department
A 1:1 mix of White vinegar and water is an ancient and cheap cleaner. The smell doesn't linger long at the correct dilution and it kills a whole bunch of things.
Add a little liquid soap for nonporous surfaces like counters and stove tops, great grease and stuck-on fighter especially if combined with a scrubber. Damp cloth to wipe up after and you're shiny.
It can be convenient when cleaning stainless or glass since it can dissolve grease and dries up streakless. Otherwise window cleaner spray also works amazingly.
Otherwise no idea why one would use it on other surfaces.
Work space. I have a small collapsable bench and two jaw stands with a couple of 2x4s I use in my garage for my work surface. It all collapses when not in use. Love those jaw stands. Inherited the little bench and it works great too and is more stable. I tend to use the bench as my work area and the stands as supports but for quick jobs I will just use the stands.
I remember when I was young I use to use IR lamps in the winter when curing paint on my car. You do have to get the placement correct to get the best surface temperature.
Currently I have two of the boards on the folding sawhorses and three more on a folding table, but I hear you and appreciate the suggestion. The IR lamp suggestion is clutch as well, I think I have several in the rabbitry for the buns’ overwinter comfort but didn’t think to use those for this. Now I’m wondering if I have spare chain lying around to make an adjustable fixture height apparatus. Good looks, thank you!
I think what I use to use was an IR spotlight in a portable spotlight fixture that had a clamp you could clamp about anywhere. Also make certain you have enough ventilation.
How bad is the “cupping?” Just a bit of give as you walk over it but otherwise level, or literally bowing with no pressure and then really bending if you walk on it?
If it’s the former, I would wait until a few weeks without rain and the seal it, see how it goes. I probally would not remove the board to do both sides as that’s a lot of work for not much gain. Stain is weather proofing, not really structural support. For that you need wood epoxy, which will run a lot more than lumber.
If it’s the latter amount of bowing, probally a full replacement with either deck quailty lumber if she cares, or cheaper, uglier and more weather resistant pressure treated lumber if she doesnt.
You can also try removing a board and flipping it over. It’s likely the other side is not nearly as warped if the bowing isn’t bad. Then flip them all over and seal the “new” top side.
In case anybody stumbles across this thread and has a similar problem: I’ve successfully installed two fiber connections this week and they’re working very well so far. I’m very happy!
My hardware shopping list:
Lightwin single-mode (OS2) simplex fiber with preattached LC plugs (link)
Lightwin LC/APC female/female adapter
Ubiquiti 10Gbit SFP+ modules (sold as a pair, product code UACC-OM-SM-10G-S-2)
Two Zyxel XMG-105HP switches with five 2.5Gbit, PoE++ RJ45 ports and one 10Gbit SFP+ port
The Lightwin cables have relatively short plugs with small and narrow protector caps, which is very important in my case.
The 2.5Gbit switch is fine for me because everything else in the house is 1Gbit and I didn’t want to spend three times the amount for two 10Gbit switches just yet. Though the OS2 fiber should be able to handle anything we might throw at it in the foreseeable future.
Pulling the cables with the attached connectors through the narrow pipe was a bit tricky. I used a standard pull-in string and strong, inflexible adhesive tape to attach the fiber cables to it so that there would be a distance of 2-3cm between the string and the first plug, with a thick wad of tape inbetween, and the second plug following at a similar distance. Then I applied a generous amount of lube to the pipe and slowly pulled the cables through. They just so went around the corners, but once the plugs came out at the other end it was smooth sailing.
The internet fiber plugs directly into the OTO socket on one side, and connects to the modem via an LC f/f adapter on the other side. The LAN fiber has a switch at each end.
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