If you’re going to run fibre, run at least a 12 core bundle, it’s probably not going to be much more expensive to run 24 as well, though, I found 12 is overkill for my house -> shed connection. If you can manage it given the space issues, pre-terminated MTP fibres are relatively inexpensive, then get yourself some MTP -> LC or SC pigtails or casettes on both ends, I found some MTP -> LC cassettes on eBay for under AUD$50, also old mellanox SFP+ PCIe cards for < AUD $40 and new SFP+ modules for 10gb fibre were $20. stick OpenWRT or OPNSense on an old computer with these cards and you’ve got yourself a 10Gb router :)
I did spend up on the ubiquiti 10Gb SFP+ aggregation switch though, which made things a bit easier!
I have no idea what a part washer is, but maybe consider using an ultrasonic cleaner.
You can then either load it with surfactants (e.g. SLS) in a water phase or with apolar solvents like cineol, terpentine or limonene, which have similar solving capabilities as diesel, but are bio based and not as flammable.
Using surfactants alone without ultrasound won’t work, but using solvents alone won’t keep the particles in phase, as they would just sink to the bottom.
If you tell me exactly how this washer looks like/ works and what exactly you wanna clean, I can help you more.
Great that you looked into the compatibility first. Many solvents can dissolve, or at least swell, parts of the machine.
The good thing is, solvent isn’t solvent. There are different kinds (polarities, etc.), and maybe something like alcohol might work.
Problem is, grease is hard to dissolve with those.
In the industry, you have special “laundry washing machines” (sort of) that work with hot solvent, e.g. benzyl alcohol, since you need movement and heat preferably to clean everything decently.
Even with a good solvent, degreasing with your washer alone won’t work as great.
I personally would go for an ultrasound bath. They tend to work more mechanically (phsically) instead of chemically, and with them, you can dissolve the dirt with soapy water pretty easily, without any volatile solvents or risks. You can get a decent one for 50 bucks starting price, or 100 if you want a bit better one.
I use Zep purple degreaser. It’s worked fantastic for all my machines. Anything you get you should avoid the fumes anyways.
You will want to pay attention to material safety data sheets. Zep in particular does not require protective equipment except for gloves( which I recommend anyways!). Also has a low rating on flammability (1)
In case anybody stumbles across this thread and has a similar problem: I’ve successfully installed two fiber connections this week and they’re working very well so far. I’m very happy!
My hardware shopping list:
Lightwin single-mode (OS2) simplex fiber with preattached LC plugs (link)
Lightwin LC/APC female/female adapter
Ubiquiti 10Gbit SFP+ modules (sold as a pair, product code UACC-OM-SM-10G-S-2)
Two Zyxel XMG-105HP switches with five 2.5Gbit, PoE++ RJ45 ports and one 10Gbit SFP+ port
The Lightwin cables have relatively short plugs with small and narrow protector caps, which is very important in my case.
The 2.5Gbit switch is fine for me because everything else in the house is 1Gbit and I didn’t want to spend three times the amount for two 10Gbit switches just yet. Though the OS2 fiber should be able to handle anything we might throw at it in the foreseeable future.
Pulling the cables with the attached connectors through the narrow pipe was a bit tricky. I used a standard pull-in string and strong, inflexible adhesive tape to attach the fiber cables to it so that there would be a distance of 2-3cm between the string and the first plug, with a thick wad of tape inbetween, and the second plug following at a similar distance. Then I applied a generous amount of lube to the pipe and slowly pulled the cables through. They just so went around the corners, but once the plugs came out at the other end it was smooth sailing.
The internet fiber plugs directly into the OTO socket on one side, and connects to the modem via an LC f/f adapter on the other side. The LAN fiber has a switch at each end.
How bad is the “cupping?” Just a bit of give as you walk over it but otherwise level, or literally bowing with no pressure and then really bending if you walk on it?
If it’s the former, I would wait until a few weeks without rain and the seal it, see how it goes. I probally would not remove the board to do both sides as that’s a lot of work for not much gain. Stain is weather proofing, not really structural support. For that you need wood epoxy, which will run a lot more than lumber.
If it’s the latter amount of bowing, probally a full replacement with either deck quailty lumber if she cares, or cheaper, uglier and more weather resistant pressure treated lumber if she doesnt.
You can also try removing a board and flipping it over. It’s likely the other side is not nearly as warped if the bowing isn’t bad. Then flip them all over and seal the “new” top side.
Work space. I have a small collapsable bench and two jaw stands with a couple of 2x4s I use in my garage for my work surface. It all collapses when not in use. Love those jaw stands. Inherited the little bench and it works great too and is more stable. I tend to use the bench as my work area and the stands as supports but for quick jobs I will just use the stands.
I remember when I was young I use to use IR lamps in the winter when curing paint on my car. You do have to get the placement correct to get the best surface temperature.
Currently I have two of the boards on the folding sawhorses and three more on a folding table, but I hear you and appreciate the suggestion. The IR lamp suggestion is clutch as well, I think I have several in the rabbitry for the buns’ overwinter comfort but didn’t think to use those for this. Now I’m wondering if I have spare chain lying around to make an adjustable fixture height apparatus. Good looks, thank you!
I think what I use to use was an IR spotlight in a portable spotlight fixture that had a clamp you could clamp about anywhere. Also make certain you have enough ventilation.
I like this kind of video. I think he could've kept it even more basic though.
Imo, the isopropyl alcohol is unnecessary. Just clean your surfaces and keep them dry afterward. Any potential pathogen needs water to multiply. Take that away and their numbers will be limited to a safe level.
Disinfection is superfluous if you adhere to clean+dry, and it is useless if you clean but leave surfaces wet
I used isopropyl for a bit and found it highly underwhelming. It wasn't great for cleaning and it evaporated way to quick. It has it's uses but not in the house cleaning department
A 1:1 mix of White vinegar and water is an ancient and cheap cleaner. The smell doesn't linger long at the correct dilution and it kills a whole bunch of things.
Add a little liquid soap for nonporous surfaces like counters and stove tops, great grease and stuck-on fighter especially if combined with a scrubber. Damp cloth to wipe up after and you're shiny.
It can be convenient when cleaning stainless or glass since it can dissolve grease and dries up streakless. Otherwise window cleaner spray also works amazingly.
Otherwise no idea why one would use it on other surfaces.
Oh thank you! I will make weekly progress updates on the project 👍
The cellar is at the furthest corner of the property and therefore must be completed first, so we can haul the building materials. The neighboring plots are 3m (10ft) higher so it's tucked cleanly in a corner that would have been useless otherwise.
It's 2.75m wide, 3.75m long and the middle is 2.35m high.
The vaulted ceiling will be completely buried, and the front entryway will be cladded with wood in the style a hobbit hole. The details aren't set in stone yet, we take a challenge at a time.
Yes great idea, I'll go to the engraving company to have a stone inscribed with our names and the year, it will feel nice to leave something tangible behind, and maybe burry a time capsule too.
Thank you! Wine definitely, probably also plant bulbs in the winter, root vegetables... we have a passive house built on a concrete slab, every room is 19°-23°C all year round, it's too warm for those.
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