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BombOmOm

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BombOmOm ,
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Install a mini-split upstairs, it will keep that zone the correct temperature using it's own thermometer. It can be downsized a bit as the main HVAC unit will help it out using your existing ducting.

For exact design, I would say have one per bedroom or a multi-zone mini-split that can cover each bedroom.

Many (most?) mini-splits are DIY friendly as well, if you want to save a bunch of money and install it yourself.

BombOmOm ,
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indoor AC or two

Yeah, these also work pretty well, OP. Just make sure you get the ones with two hoses, not just one for exhaust. The single hose ones create a vacuum in your house that sucks in outside air making them significantly less efficient.

BombOmOm , (edited )
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I swear that 80% of peoples complaints with Windows can be handled with Group Policy.

One shouldn't have to go into the Group Policy screens just to restore basic functionality like 'use my default browser' and 'stop searching the web when I am searching my computer' and 'stop sending all my actions to your servers'. There is a reason people have been telling others to use Linux, rather than continue to put up with Microsoft's crap.

BombOmOm ,
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Crappy solutions would be to occasionally murder the mold or to build up something waterproof in the corner so the water rolls off. Unfortunately there is really only one fix, which is to re-tile that section (possibly the entire bottom) so it slopes properly to the drain.

BombOmOm , (edited )
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I am not sure what the best way to do that was and whether or not it could look like a clean fix. I would still like to explore what that fix might look like which would help me understand why it is a crappy solution.

It would be something like adding a corner of slanted tile there and grouting it into place. There is no way it will ever look like it was supposed to be there. And if you don’t get it sealed 100%, now you have a void which is basically permanently wet inside.

Another option would be to build up some silicone in the area, that is probably going to look even less good, but it will be easier, more likely to seal well, and can be removed. Do note if the tile is bumpy, getting the silicone out of the bumps later might prove difficult, but if the tile is smooth, you can scrape it off pretty easily. After you put it down, you can smooth the silicone out with a wetted finger or smoothing tool.

I would personally be tempted to go the silicone route if a full fix is off the table since mold is evil.

BombOmOm ,
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I don’t like the guy, but I like even less the government deciding to take candidates off the ballot.

The opinion: www.supremecourt.gov/opinions/…/23-719_19m2.pdf

We conclude that States may disqualify persons holding or attempting to hold state office. But States have no power under the Constitution to enforce Section 3 with respect to federal offices, especially the Presidency.

BombOmOm ,
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A foam sealant would be my go-to for a hole that size. Only costs a few bucks for a can.

BombOmOm ,
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Unfortunately, I don’t have any experience with the foam sealants that claim to be rodent resistant (my use case was air, moisture, bug sealing). But, they do exist, so that is likely a good place to go.

BombOmOm ,
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Sealing a basic hole is a straightforward job that doesn’t require $100 - $400 for a contractor to do. His business sounds like it has one employee (himself) and sending that employee to complete basic jobs is quite logical. While a contractor could certainly get the job done, I have seen my fair share of contractors that are actively bad at their jobs and will produce a worse result than researching the issue and solving it in-house.

BombOmOm ,
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If the ‘window’ part isn’t a requirement. A mini-split fits the bill. They are efficient, aren’t a blight, and can be sized to service a room or so.

BombOmOm ,
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Yeah, those little third-height tanks do not make for good baths. Turned mine up quite heavily so a shower alone wouldn’t ruin the entire supply.

BombOmOm ,
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Off-the shelf non-smart LEDs are also a thing, they basically read the input voltage as the input for how dim you want them to be. Then adjust themselves as necessary to make less light (as you said, generally by pulsing very quickly). But, you do need ones that specifically say they are dimmable.

I need advice on a Hyper-V cluster migration

I have a customer with an old Windows Server 2012 with hyper v cluster configured for 2 nodes. One node died completely. I have 2 new HP proliant 360 Gen10 running Server 2022 DC and a big SAN, and I am trying to figure out the best way to move over the 6 VMs on the existing host. I’m new to this process but it seems like the...

BombOmOm ,
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You can use the ‘move’ function in Hyper-V to perform a live migration which incurs no downtime. Select the VM, click Move, select ‘Move the virtual machine’ (not ‘Move the virtual machine’s storage’, that only moves the storage, not the whole VM), and then finish out the wizard. IIRC that is sensitive to host architecture being sufficiently similar (changing processor generations can make it sufficiently different), so it may not work for you.

If you can’t do that and since it is a single-digit number of VMs, you could turn them off, copy the .vhd files to the new location, set the VMs up on the new server, and turn them on. That is, of course, going to incur some downtime, so it isn’t optimal.

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/7041ad0f-c059-41a8-a314-4907ba1ba95c.png

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