Home prices weakened month to month, according to Black Knight. While still gaining, which they usually do at this time of year, the gains fell below their 25-year average. This after significantly outdoing their historical averages from February through June. It’s a signal that a slowdown in prices may be underway again....
Or in the case OP, they bought pressure treated wood which is literally injected with moisture (chemicals) to prevent decay. If you ever picked up a piece of fresh PT lumber it is HEAVY from all the moisture. Best to let it dry a couple weeks before working with it.
You have what appears to be a BX cable penetrating and indoor wall to a garage. This needs fire stopping to meet code.
Here is Hilti’s drawing showing the wall assembly and how it can be fire stopped with their products. The optional metal conduit pictured would make it cleaner but also require disconnecting the cable.
If you are on municipal water and there is no check valve between you and the water meter then the municipal water supply is acting as the expansion tank. It may not be to code in your area but that’s how many homes were built in the past.
Electrical panel clearance may be an issue. Think you need like 30" width clearance which can be off-center to push it up to the panel edge. Looks tight from the picture.
Add some fire blocking on the wall penetrations if that is going to an interior wall from a garage.
Is your pex rated to handle the pressure relief valve temperatures and is the inner diameter equal to or larger than the valve opening?
Is there an air gap on your pressure relief drain? (can’t see where it terminates.
Might need an expansion tank is needed.
As others said: drain pan, straps
Had a nicer formatting post writen but lost it when trying to post during site outage.
To be frank, I'm not sure if replacing the single pane with double pane is: A - something I can afford at the moment and B - something I can DIY (which adds to point A)....
Windows are usually towards the end of the list of things to upgrade. What’s your insulation situation like? Attic, walls, ductwork? Have you done a leak test to see where conditioned air is escaping? Has your AC been serviced and in good operating order?
I’d check all those out before replacing windows. As other poster suggested. Especially if you have windows that are in good condition otherwise.
It’s not ideal, but could be worse. The old decking gave way. Whether the roofers saw that and covered it up or it gave through when the air nailer got it is another matter. Most roofers would probably keep going till the job was done and address isolated issues like this after.
If decking repairs or a warranty were in your contract then they should make it right. If you don’t have a contract then it’s at the discretion of the roofers if they want to do anything about it.
Over the life of the roof that spot may wear prematurely or give way if any weight hits it. It’s under a vent so there is probably a metal flange over it. So it might hold up. Time will tell.
It’s certainly fixable. To do it the right way you need to take it all the way down to the decking and patch in a new board. Certainly doable, but kind of a pita.
EDIT: I’ve attached a rough map of the situation. The laundry room is the little room in the middle. The red dot is where the dryer vents into the garage....
A floorplan or photos would be helpful if you want a precise answer. Refer to you dryers manual for maximum vent length, but typically you can extend the vent around 25-30ft to get it to an exit point. The roof is an option but less ideal. Typically a gable end of the house is best.
They also make ventless condensing dryers which are in supposed to very efficient but have long drying cycles. I’ve not heard the best reviews on them, but do your own research.
More generally speaking try to limit your dryer use. It just adds wear and tear on your clothes and costs money to use. Hang dry when you can. I personally partially dry and then hang as it makes clothes largely wrinkle free.
Edit: I see the floorplan OP uploaded, but I’m unclear on what is an exterior wall. Is the north side of the garage an exterior wall? Because that would be a short run to extend the vent to reach an exit point.
Looks like you’ve got 1x6 boards as your fascia which are probably pine, cedar or something similar depending on your region with plywood under the soffit. This is how they are traditionally done.
Nothing wrong with this but they do require maintenance. You’ll pay a premium these days for solid wood which is why most builders and budget conscious people pick cement and man made products.
This honestly looks like it is decent shape still and is just due for some maintenance. But pictures can be deceiving. Poke it with a screwdriver. If it’s solid then strip and repaint. It may take a little more labor if a board needs replacing but I personally favor repairing something that is fixable.
Then I’d say pry those two boards out. Take them to your local lumber supplier and pickup some new stock that is the correct dimension. Some places carry pre-primed lumber to save some labor. Use the existing pieces as a template to cut your new stock to shape. Scrape or sand the fascia that is solid. Prime and paint it all. Don’t forget to use some outdoor rated fasteners that won’t rust.
Which species of wood to use is a whole topic in itself, but the more expensive options are naturally rot resistant like cedar and redwood. I think cypress? is native to your area so that may be what they stock locally.
With regular paint maintenance though most species will hold up well.
-When is the last time your AC was serviced? Are the filters or condenser coil blocked with dirt and dust and killing it’s performance? Is the condenser installed under a deck or somewhere stupid with no airflow?
-Fix air leaks. These are the biggest loss of energy. You can diy or have someone preform a home energy audit where they hookup a fan to see how much air loss there is. Then seal gaps, replace worn weatherstripping, etc and retest. There are incentive programs here in many states to help pay for these audits
-Is you attic properly vented? Look for soffit vents and ridge vents. You may only have gable vents in an older home which is not going to cut it. Your attic becomes an oven if it’s improperly vented. There is a certain ratio of ventilation to square footage of attic that needs to be met, 150:1 if I recall.
-Insulate attic: You didn’t specify your region but 8 inches of old fiberglass isn’t going to cut it in the majority of regions. That could be as little as R20. Adding additional insulation to the attic is cost effective and there are incentives programs to do so. Check what the recommended r value is for your zone. R49 will cover most of the US if I recall.
-insulate walls: You don’t need to tear down the drywall to insulate. They drill holes into each joist bay and blow loose fill insulation in. Then patch all the holes. Same as attic but slightly more work.
-windows: are your windows/storm windows using double pane glass? If they are, how old are they? have their seal been broken? Also look into curtain treatments for windows that get heavy sun.
The very last thing you should do is be looking at replacing HVAC gear. If you do it out of order then you’ll buy oversized equipment that will short cycle when you add insulation.
Also more generally, trees. Plant them. Let them get big and grow around your house for shade. Not exactly an overnight fix but mature trees can reduce massive thermal loads. Especially if they shade your AC from direct sunlight.
And one last note, please don’t add vinyl ontop of your brick veneer. That’s a great way to devalue your home. Yes technically you can put vinyl up with a layer of foam insulation board underneath but that’s really a last resort.
Just because there is an induction stove does not mean ventilation is no longer needed. Cooking produces a lot of things that aren’t necessarily good for you to inhale. Consider adding an appropriately sized hood. You may end up needing this duct.
Hot water was running out very quickly. I tested voltages, upper element looked good, on the lower the small protective plastic cover over the wires shocked me. I cut the breaker and found this loose wire. And obviously all this rust/mineral build up. If I were to fix I’d try to replace the element but I’m afraid that I...
I have a very odd issue that I can’t solve, perhaps someone here could help. The pipe attached to my main shutoff valve is emitting a soft knocking sound at around 120 beats per minute. The sound persists as long as there is any amount of pressure, and I can feel it in the pipe nearby as well as in the valve handle itself. The...
Pressure reducing valve. Typically found directly after the water meter to reduce high municipal water pressure to reasonable residential water pressures.
Home prices may be on the verge of cooling off ( www.nbcnews.com )
Home prices weakened month to month, according to Black Knight. While still gaining, which they usually do at this time of year, the gains fell below their 25-year average. This after significantly outdoing their historical averages from February through June. It’s a signal that a slowdown in prices may be underway again....
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How would you fill these gaps? ( lemmy.world )
They are bigger than I was able to capture on camera beauty of water heater being in the way.
Bought a new home with a stone basement. Thinking about throwing a small home gym down there, is there anything I should consider beforehand?
Hey Y’all...
First time ever installing a water heater, or doing any plumbing... ( lemmy.world )
Single pane windows, would shutters be a frugal fix?
To be frank, I'm not sure if replacing the single pane with double pane is: A - something I can afford at the moment and B - something I can DIY (which adds to point A)....
Recently had roof replaced. Is this normal? ( lemmy.world )
There are 3-4 spots like this. Want to make sure to discuss with contractor if I should prior to making last payment.
Ideas for electric clothes dryer that vents into attached garage
EDIT: I’ve attached a rough map of the situation. The laundry room is the little room in the middle. The red dot is where the dryer vents into the garage....
Roof box end replacement material? ( lemmy.world )
What kinda of wood or other material should be used to replace the box end and soffit?
Siding, Insulation, or Mini-Split?
Hi all,...
How to seal this open duct? ( lemmy.world )
Found this in a cabinet under the stove. I think it’s old ventilation from before the induction burner was installed. Not sure how to seal it off.
Fixable or new water heater needed? ( lemmy.world )
Hot water was running out very quickly. I tested voltages, upper element looked good, on the lower the small protective plastic cover over the wires shocked me. I cut the breaker and found this loose wire. And obviously all this rust/mineral build up. If I were to fix I’d try to replace the element but I’m afraid that I...
Pipes knocking around 120bpm
I have a very odd issue that I can’t solve, perhaps someone here could help. The pipe attached to my main shutoff valve is emitting a soft knocking sound at around 120 beats per minute. The sound persists as long as there is any amount of pressure, and I can feel it in the pipe nearby as well as in the valve handle itself. The...