I have an attic that gets direct sun until the afternoon. It gets quite hot. I had easy access to the rafters so I used radiant barrier, and the difference is very big. As you're putting it up you can tell that it's blocking the heat standing in an a covered vs uncovered area. In subsequent days when it was all up it was obviously cooler. It's still hot but not unbearable.
Radiant barrier is more expensive and fiberglass probably would have worked just as well in this situation, but I didn't know enough about air flow in that space to tell whether fiberglass would impede anything,so I used radiant barrier and left a gap at the bottoms and tops. It is very easy to install. Fiberglass wouldn't be too hard either, but the barrier is daed simple and there's less volume to move around.
In general, my experience say it's going to help, and whether you do fiberglass or radiant barrier is up to you.
A bleach solution or white vinet solution will kill it. You could spot test for colorfastness on all surfaces first. And there are places online that give solution ratios.
Other people have better ideas, but a very small dab of blue Loctite (the one that isn't permanent) on the bottom knuckle would keep it in place but probably be removable with a hammer and pin.
I’m guessing it’s a right angle quarter turn ball valve. It’s crimped on one side and looks like a compression fitting on the other. Maybe it’s a gate valve, which in my experience are far more prone to leaks, but the notches in the handle make me think ball valve.
Maybe the insulation built into the siding isn’t worth it, but my last house had foam installed beneath the vinyl siding. I noticed that the house was much more comfortable before I knew that insulation was there. I’d recommend getting the price estimate at least, especially in a cold climate.
This covers it all well, but I think a simple explanation is that although “W/m^2/x” looks the same on the axes, it’s not the same. f=1/w, so one axis is W/m^2/f and one is W/m^2*f. The article makes a big deal out of the differences as if the x axis were the only difference, but they’re just very different things being plotted.
The water analogy is perfectly fine for many situations, but the reason these don’t draw a lot of power when nothing is plugged in isn’t because a “valve is off”. There’s a transformer, so this is like two separate water lines. If the charger is plugged in, there’s always a closed circuit on the mains side of the transformer, even if there’s an open circuit on the DC side. See the first diagram here: circuitdigest.com/…/ac-to-dc-converter-circuit-di….
The reason new chargers don’t use as much power with no device attached is because of better design. If you checked an old charger or some crappy power supply, they’ll use a fair bit of power even with nothing on the DC side. It’s not enough that one would matter, but it is enough that there was an industry wide initiative to reduce phantom load resulting in new chargers that use almost nothing when nothing is on the DC.
Benjamin Moore paint is very nice, but it’s also very expensive. Sherwin Williams is nice and somewhat expensive, although they often have sales. I have found that Behr paint is not very nice and isn’t all that cheap either. It covers well, but it doesn’t go on as smoothly as other brands.
I check Lemmy about twice a day, work in and foster a collegial environment, and have a background in science. I can’t say I would be intensely active, but currently there is less than 1 post per day here, so even a little would lighten the load.