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seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

That might have been how they found out. "Cody's been active for 48 hours straight and hasn't accomplished a single thing."

seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

Mud Daubers would like a word. They are one of the few wasp bros, too. Those mud nests are full of half dead paralyzed spiders.

seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

They're pretty chill as far as wasps go. They don't go looking for fights but they'll bring it if you antagonize them enough. You can swat one away and they'll usually leave you alone. Unlike an asshole yellow jacket that will make it their life's mission to bring you pain if you look at it wrong.

seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

Not a professional but Ive DIYed it. So the following may be oversimplified and/or not best practice.

You'll need a gauge set so you can watch both the high and low side pressures. Your unit probably does not have ports to attach the gauges but they make some adapters that bolt on and pierce the lines. These work ok but will probably be another spot for leaks down the road.

You'll need to figure out what refrigerant your unit has in it, there's usually a metal placard somewhere that tells you this. This is how you'll look up where your pressures need to be.

Finally you'll need to source said refrigerant, which you likely cannot buy without a license or bribing someone.

The actual charging procedure I would look around on youtube for. It may vary depending on your type of unit but it's usually pretty straightforward.

seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

I have no experience whatsoever with heat pumps. I think they do some black magic with reversing the refrigerant flow; so there is probably a whole other set of specs and procedures for those.

seathru ,
@seathru@lemmy.sdf.org avatar

It'll eventually wear off your skin. In a few days. On other, relatively non porous surfaces, it can be removed easily once cured. Porous surfaces like wood, cloth, or carpet? Sorry, it's here to stay.

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