I need to de-huge a huge room. I thought making some sound absorbing panels might help. I found this video, which is great, so I’m going to try this. Having trickle finding thermally bonded polyester though. Is that a common thing, or is it a niche product.
@stopthatgirl7 This seems like quite the lift and shift. Moving to a new platform would definitely split their user based. I would also thin that any form of aggressive defederation would split their user base as well. From what I can tell, there are not many (if any) fediverse platforms that have the level of moderation tools they they are looking for.
Unfortunately, It just looks like they are in a tight spot. One the could make or break that community.
I think part of the problem is that moderation tools, in general, on the threadiverse are extremely weak. It’s easy to share across platforms and instances on kbin and lemmy, but it seems to be a nightmare to moderate across platforms and instances, in a way that it isn’t on other Fediverse sites. I can’t tell if it’s by design or by oversight, but it’s going to only become a bigger problem in the future if it isn’t sorted soon. Beehaw’s issues with moderation seem like the canary in the coal mine.
This I think. Every platform that is not just a mess needs moderation. There are things you just cannot allow especially in a platform that is suppose to be a safe space or at least not a total shit fest. Some of this is the law too, CSAM for example or copyrighted material. The rest is just about not putting up with trolls. When lemmy was 1000 users total this problem is a lot different then 1 million to 10 million or 100 million. It is just that Behaw is a bit more particular on one hand and probably more of a target on the other.
Looking at all the spam on the science community proves you wrong. It’s on lemmy, and the mods smack down all the spam quickly…On Lemmy. But people looking at it on kbin see constant posts of spam and advertising, making the community completely unusable, because the lemmy admins can’t moderate the page on kbin once it’s federated into the kbin server. Likewise, mods on lemmy and kbin might lock comments on a post that’s getting toxic, but that lock doesn’t carry over to kbin, and they can’t do anything about it. That’s the issue I’m talking about.
If the community is on kbin that the kbin mod removes the spam. If the community is on lemmy instance than mod on lemmy instance removes spam.
Isn't that how it works? The mod on the community instances removes the spam and then it gets removed on all sites right?
Likewise, mods on lemmy and kbin might lock comments on a post that’s getting toxic, but that lock doesn’t carry over to kbin, and they can’t do anything about it.
Wouldn't a lock on a thread on that community's site prevent any new comments from coming back to that site over the fediverse?
Yes, but the problem is it doesn’t federate. A lemmy mod can remove spam on their lemmy community, but there’s no one to remove the spam once it federates to be on a kbin server. That’s why the science community seen on kbin is swarming with spam - the mods on lemmy remove it, but there’s no one to remove it on kbin until Ernest removes it, because communities default to him as the moderator of the kbin magazine version, and no way for lemmy mods to make someone on kbin a moderator for it.
Honestly, given the ruckus they've been raising for a while now, my feeling is that Beehaw wants to push themselves away from society as a whole. I don't agree with their perspective, which is part of why I never engage with much of their content or users. All I can say is that I wish them only the best for their echo chamber.
I have been unsubscribing from communities on beehaw and finding their siblings on other instances so that if they decide to leave i have already mostly disconnected from them and my home feed wont become a shell of itself.
It’s less an echo chamber and more simply an attempt at creating an Internet community that doesn’t constantly argue or insult people. Where you treat people like they are smart humans and where others return the same assumption. All different opinions are welcomed. I know I hold a few strong differing opinions than the norm on beehaw and have always been treated with decency. Taking those same opinions in to lemmy general I’ve been called names and attempted to be invalidated instead of people trying to see a different opinion. So if anything it seems like lemmy general is becoming an echo chamber and beehaw is trying to be a respectful discourse community.
The impression I get is that Beehaw is trying to seclude itself not to be an echo chamber, but because an admin saw CP get posted and is traumatized by that, and it’s really highlighting the lack of mod tools. They want to moderate the space to ensure it’s nice (and it’s frankly needed. I made a Beehaw account at one point in time. I reported quite a few not-bigoted-but-still-nasty posts) and right now being federated with everyone makes it way too hard because even if 1% of posts are anywhere from “not nice” to “you literally posted child porn,” 1% of 100 is easy but 1% of 100,000 could be a lot of work.
Ah, yes that too. I was thinking of the defederating with lemmy.world and sh.it.works when I was reading that. But Also, yes, they are likely moving because mod tools on the fediverse are a nightmare. Honestly, I see why the US Congress and major lobbyists want to hold service owners accountable for what their users post. Creating a platform for users to post whatever then not moderating it properly should be and I think is illegal in the USA. The fediverse at heart seems to be designed without any moderation in mind.
Very well thought out post. It seems like they are considering pretty big measures. I think the next logical place to go for them is to whitelist instead of blacklist. Sucks for self hosters, but in general gives Beehaw what they want.
Moderation tools seem to be the biggest problem for the poster. They also say the devs don’t see it as a priority. They say they’ve even offered bounties to add better tool support. Moderation tools get brought up all the time on Lemmy—I agree that it should be the main focus or development right now TBH.
A big problem a lot of mods had on Reddit, and why they basically needed 3rd party apps - was that moderation tools weren’t up to snuff. So I don’t quite understand why getting good, robust moderation tools isn’t a top priority for the lemmy devs.
I’m having a bit of a tough time making out the bevel in your second picture - the angle looks steep but not unreasonably so. Are you flat filing the backs of the cutting faces to work the burr? Here is a guide to determine the angle you should be aiming for.
I love flat files for sharpening larger blades like my axes and hatchets (they’re still finished with a stone) but tend to reach for a sharpening stone for smaller blades like scissors and secateurs. The wider face of the stone makes it easier to keep a consistent angle even without the use of a jig.
Thanks. That’s helpful! I don’t have a stone just yet. The angle seemed a little steeper than I expected but I couldn’t tell if flattened out nearer the handle. I did some work on the back but not much, it’s not concave on the backs.
It’s normal for scissors to have different angles on the thumb arm than the finger arm, depending on their intended use. You shouldn’t have to work the backs too much, but they should be revisited every so often during filing/honing to work the burr that is formed by the sharpening. I personally feel that a stone is more economical but you can finish hone with high grit automotive sandpaper too. If you’ve got an old leather belt, some scrap wood, and some glue you could make yourself a strop and only need some polishing compound. The finish work with a strop removes the burr, leaving the sharpened edge - if you don’t remove the burr your tool is likely to lose the edge more quickly.
Thank you. I meant on the same blade, the angle looked like it could be steeper at one end than at the other. But it seemed odd that it would come like that or wear like that over time? So maybe I was imagining it I’m not sure
I see what you mean - is it possible that you’re a “back third” cutter? I tend to cut close to the lever end of scissors and will have to touch that section up well before the point end needs any maintenance.
You just need to hit the angled part of the scissor blades a couple of times with the file, following the already established angle. The file is probably too coarse to make a smooth edge though. So you have anything to finish up with? A honing steel or something?
Unfortunately as I am on mobile I cannot dm… but this may be an interesting discussion:
Is it any kind of possible to buy a kind of kit to essentially hybridize an existing bike into, if not a fully hybrid vehicle, at least something that would charge a battery system as you drive?
I realize the most likely answer to this is basically you would have to re-engineer the bike considerably, even if youre not trying to work an electric motor and hybrid drive system into the thing, there are likely a slew of problems.
That being said… maybe someone has attempted this?
Seems like hybrid motorcycles are just barely a thing that exists for purchase… but I have not been able to find any where on the internet detailing trying to hybridize an existing bike.
As someone who rides an already heavy bike (it’s just old), and drives a hybrid, I just don’t personally see motorcycles ever really being a meaningful use-case for hybrid tech. Batteries are heavy and current electric bikes already don’t get fantastic range, so it just doesn’t make sense to add more weight to get less range. Stop-start application may have some use in a dual clutch transmission, or maybe on pulling the clutch in, but that’s only useful in traffic, where you really want consistency and reliability when you don’t have any buffer space, and most bikes get better fuel economy anyways…
Didn’t mean to rant a bit, I was a hybrid and EV diag tech for Chevy for a bit and I gave it some thought.
1984 Honda VF700S and a 1st, then 2nd gen Toyota Highlander hybrid.
Motorcycles and battery tech really don’t go together well because batteries are inescapably heavy when scaled up to the power and range demands of a proper motorcycle. Most street bikes have at least 120 miles of range and that’s more than the first mass-market electric cars had. Hybrid would be even worse than pure electric for weight. Hence why almost nobody’s making them.
If you paid someone enough to make it, of course you could buy one. But you’d spend mansion money. A two-wheeled hybrid would have to be engineered from scratch. I can’t think of a single motorcycle made and sold in the last couple decades that hasn’t been designed specifically around its internal combustion engine. They’re not meant for easy powertrain swaps and nowadays they’re built tightly together. Balance is also incredibly important on a motorcycle and even just a few pounds in the right places can massively change how it rides.
Small motorcycles are already stupid efficient, too, so that’s another reason why a hybrid isn’t a common idea. The fuel-injected Honda Grom can achieve over 100MPG on regular gas and fuel-injected scooters can get even more. What would be gained in fuel efficiency would be lost to the weight of the whole hybrid setup.
Anyone can attempt a home project with enough time, money, and ingenuity though.
I could perhaps see something like a Ural sidecar rig having a hybrid drivetrain thrown into it since weight and balance isn’t much of a concern. You could easily throw 200 pounds of batteries into the sidecar without causing any problems, and put a motor next to them to drive the axle from next to the outrigger wheel. Ural makes 2WD models so on those there’s already a driveshaft out there. But that’s a 3-wheeled contraption that already weighs plenty.
It’s a neat idea, but you know what the most practical “hybrid” on two wheels already is? A hybrid between human pedal power and an electric motor: the E-bike. Honestly if they weren’t so expensive they’d completely wreck the 50cc scooter market. Very similar use cases, lighter, about the same speeds, more nimble, easier to park, and better exercise. In a place with decent bicycle infrastructure they’re absolutely ideal.
I can’t tell you how thankful I am that you posted this. I’ve actually been sitting on a Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 for about a year now and need to give it a complete maintenance overhaul plus a new suspension so I can drop it a couple of inches for QOL. I’ve been wanting to use this as my project to get more familiar with wrenching as well, since I DIY a lot of tech stuff personally and professionally, and want to eventually get a project car for the track. Any guidance/help/pointing in the right direction is greatly appreciated.
I have only worked on 1 Husqvarna to date – a 2015 501FE.
Depends on how mechanically-experienced you are in general. If you’ve ever worked on a car or another motorcycle you’ll be in decent shape. If not, there’s a ton of small things to know, especially with a motorcycle so new and electronically fancy. Lots of procedures and even some tools are model-specific.
In general there are a few things I’d say: buy torque wrenches and learn how to use them or you will be breaking a lot of fasteners. Get a service manual for your motorcycle if one exists, and refer to it frequently; they often have a section for beginner mechanics that explains many things you need to know. They also contain accurate reference information you can read faster than I can reply.
Here’s the bad news: good suspension is not cheap and there’s no way around it. Especially custom or lowered suspension. Often it’s cheaper to have a seatbuilder lower or change your seat via a rebuild than it is to buy a custom shock. You have to change both ends of the bike to match if you lower one end. How tall are you? What’s your inseam relative to the seat height? I see a lot of beginners saying they want to lower their motorcycle because it makes them feel more comfortable at lower speed, because they can’t get their entire feet flat on the ground – frankly if you can get the front third of both feet down on the ground while sitting that is enough to balance. If you’re shorter with a shorter inseam than the test rider the machine was designed for, that’s understandable and custom suspension or seatwork may be in your future.
Thankfully, the person I got the bike from had the full owner’s and service manual. I know that newer versions of the bike have an adjustable suspension included, and am wondering if that will still fit on the older bike. Maybe an adapter plate or something like that? I could live without it, with more time I’ll get comfortable wheelin’ and dealin’. I don’t know what kind of changes were made besides the routing of the exhaust after they moved production from Sweden to India for the newer models.
I definitely need to build up my automotive tool kit. Everything I have now is more geared towards computer repair/light house work. The bike has been sitting for a year straight with a full tank of gas and fluids, so just wanted a checklist of what to attack how/in what order; that way I know how to get started on this thing. I know that the manual will provide steps and required tools. How to flush the tank/lines/injectors safely would be nice, I don’t know if the manual is going to have info like that. Checking if the wheel balance is still good/how to adjust. I have some aftermarket stuff to install which should help with known issues on the bike, like the fuel/air ratio being a little lean stock.
Happy to exchange some info if you want to be pen pals on a project, I appreciate any guidance/wisdom you’re willing to pass along. I’m moving into a new place that’ll give me a dedicated space where I can actually work on this thing and get it up to shape.
As to how feasible a suspension adapter plate is: that kind of stuff, and whether certain parts will swap between years, is super model-specific. Unfortunately I can’t help you there and my suggestion would be to find Husqvarna enthusiast forums and/or browse through the OEM parts diagrams. My limited experience with non-OEM motorcycle suspension and modifications has told me this: suspension is wildly, massively complicated to design and engineer. You can spend a whole career on it. I looked into revalving a Fox shock for my BMW and ran smack into either buying an $80 software license to run all the figures for me (a complex specific Excel spreadsheet really) or reading textbook-sized papers full of extensive math. So be careful and don’t tread new territory unless you absolutely have to, because suspension is very easy to mess up and often hard to get right.
As to sitting for a year: the environment it sat in matters. Was it outside, inside, moist, dry? That will determine how much stuff you need to check over and possibly replace, but no matter what your primary concerns will be two things.
The shelf life of gasoline is 6-8 weeks unstabilized and E10 (standard ethanol-mixed pump gasoline) sucks water straight out of the air. Sometimes you can get away with longer in a fuel injection system that’s well-sealed, but never a full year unless the gas got treated with something like Sta-Bil before it sat. You will either need to remove, or dilute, that old gasoline. If the tank was full I’d recommend pulling that gas out and putting it into something else, like a big car or truck fuel tank, where its few gallons can be diluted with a lot more fresh gasoline and it won’t hurt. If there’s less than a gallon in it you may simply be able to fill it back up to the brim with fresh gas and some octane booster. If your Husky is anything like that one I worked on, the tank won’t be a nightmare to remove and that’ll make the fuel a lot easier to just turn the tank over and dump it out into a funnel. Your service manual should cover the tank removal procedure in detail. I wouldn’t worry about the tidbit of fuel in the lines, but if you’re unlucky your injector may be clogged. Try the fresh gas first though. If it won’t run with fresh gas then I or a decent Youtube tutorial can walk you through cleaning out a fuel injector (which I actually did on the Husky I worked on, which had sat for 2 years with the same gas in its tank).
Your tires, if the bike has been sitting on them the whole year without being inflated or moved, may have flat spots. You can really only determine this via the eye test, and the ride test if it’s not visible. This isn’t really a “balance” issue so much as it is the carcass of the tire getting stuck in a bent state. If you can see that one part of the radius of the tire doesn’t look perfectly round like the rest, that’s a flat spot. Unfortunately the only cure for an obvious flat spot is to replace the tire. If you can’t see obvious flat spots, you’ll only know when you reinflate the tires and ride. It’ll feel like an imbalanced wheel, like you’re constantly hitting small bumps in a rhythm that increases the faster you go. Again, only cure is new tires.
Any advice on the battery? Should I just replace it with something like a lithium ion battery outright, or can I just stick it on a tender and see if it’s still good?
If it’s a traditional lead-acid battery and is also the original factory one, just replace it. Lithium batteries are great as they save a bunch of weight, but they’re expensive and don’t handle the cold as well.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the guidance and thoughtful responses. I’m not in a position to start getting it going immediately, but will reach out (if you’d like) once I start on her. Thank you again for your time and knowledge-base.
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