We were lucky, as our neighbor who is also renovating offered the steps of his old staircase. I modelled the thing in SketchUp to be able to measure all the angles and dimensions. We then made templates out of plywood for the 2 kinds of segments and used a flush router bit to reproduce the shape.
Your best bet would be PVA (Poly vinyl alcohol), which is a water soluble plastic and usually the base of wood glue or water based paper glue.
Dilute it in warm water and soak your paper in it.
Starch is too stiff and crumbly for that use case.
Artist here. Gesso makes flimsy paper more durable, better able to withstand wetness, layering. I’ve used spray adhesive, various liquid adhesives that can turn paper more stiff, solid, crisp. Maybe try calling an art supplies store, they might have ideas
Also OP, what year was your house built? Assuming you’re in the US if it was built in the 70s or 80s that could be aluminum wire, which you absolutely should not connect to anything that is copper due to fire hazard. The aluminum and copper together cause corrosion which makes the wires not make good electrical contact and thus it heats up and causes a fire.
Please just replace the wire and don’t try to use it.
Edit: just saw your edit. Yeah, it was aluminum, glad you’re replacing it.
I just finished running the new wire. I really lucked out. My step dad has a 50’ fishing tape and a 10’ endoscope that I was able to borrow. I got a new 10/2 wire pushed through fine. I called whirlpool for the specifications and they said the dryer needs 30 amps and will work with 10/2 or 10/3 wire. I was gonna go for the 10/3 but both lowes and Home Depot were sold out so I went with the 10/2. Got a 25’ roll and it used most of it. Maybe a foot of slack
Awesome!! Glad to hear it. As long as the dryer doesn’t need the 4th wire for 120v separate from the 240v you should be fine. Hopefully whirlpool didn’t tell you the wrong thing. Kinda stinks for future upgradability though in case you wanted to get a dryer down the line that requires the 3rd conductor.
But actually, if it got in any soft materials like couches they will still hold a smell. Not sure if it can happen even if its just from his clothes after hes already smoked. Other than that, ozone as others have suggested.
I made a similar repair but with a smaller break using superglue (cyanoacrylate), held perfectly. However, I reinforced the broken part with a piece of a plastic card glued to the side. Consider doing that if this doesn’t hold.
I’d be concerned that the rough surface you seem to have now will be hard to clean and may get very nasty. Other than that, if it works it works.
I’m not worried about fully cured CA glue on a non-contact surface of a shelf that holds bottles/milk packs etc., or honestly even fruit whose peel you don’t eat.
Given that CA-based glues are used for wound closure and apparently even as dental adhesives, I’ll trust www.ontariopoisoncentre.ca/…/super-glue/ over the many sites that look like ChatGPT wrote them (mostly trying to sell some food safe alternative). It’s not food safe, so I wouldn’t glue e.g. a soup bowl with it, but eating an orange that sat on a cured seam in a fridge isn’t going to poison you.
Keep searching, as parts do turn up, but you may be able to find someone skilled in fabrication who could make the part for you. Failing that, they could make something which would work in your oven & maybe last longer.
You’d need to show them the one you have & ideally schematics for the piece & for the whole oven.
I am by no means an expert, but that could be water damage. Are the boards there more raised than the others? If not, the previous owner may have sanded it down and stained over the top.
I also have an unfinished basement that I’m working on sealing. Generally the dust comes from the unsealed concrete. Assuming your unfinished basement actually has concrete walls and floor, you can do the same to prevent the dust in the first place. They sell concrete sealer at hardware stores and you can have them color it to your liking as well. Just need to wash the floor and walls first, then paint it with a couple coats depending on the brand of paint. Aside from that, if you don’t want to seal the basement, you’ll just want to create a walled off area using sheets or plastic or similar that will prevent dust from getting into the area and then using an air purifier like you mentioned. This is really only good as a temporary solution, but it could work fine for a quick fix while you figure out your basement situation.
Yes, I do have bare concrete walls and floor. That’s crazy, I never would’ve thought they “shed” dust or anything.
For a haunted house a few years ago we put painters tarp on the unfinished walls so they’re somewhat partitioned, but not air tight or anything (or I guess “dust tight”) but depending on how it works I could easily seal off one of the rooms since it is already pretty sealed. Would I need to cover the floor and walls as well?
enough in a pinch to get a call or some texts out order a rideshare/taxi from the bar etc. this would be more useful for topping up a rechargeable flashlight or… your other vapes.
Though back in the day I was doing exactly the opposite of this 🙃
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