Love the light on that shot! I hope you'll keep going with the hobby!
Here are a few things:
"Kit lens" such as this 18-55 of yours are typically not that great. It really depends what you plan to shoot, but going with a prime lens (50mm f/1.8), if you can afford it, or something vintage (Helios) can be a great experience; also for "forcing" you to shoot manual, as other advised.
Great to see you are on Linux! I have no idea about the webcam stuff. I also didn't had luck trying to use a Sony camera myself, but I'm guessing if the proprietary software doesn't work, the only option is to get a capture card for your PC.
For editing, I strongly recommend Darktable, also as advised before!
Shooting manual is rewarding; shooting "blind" (idk if there is a specific word for that), where you estimate the exposure "by hand" is a lot of fun imo, and very forgivable on digital camera! If you can, give a shot at the "Sunny 16 rule" technique. To me, it makes shooting outside very relaxing since I don't have to care about the camera settings that much once it's figured out.
Have fun, but beware! It's a deep, deep rabbit hole.
I've heard Darktable a lot, and I've actually looked at it before, but it looked intimidating and I did not yet really have any photos I could try to edit, so I continued doing that first.
As for the webcam thing: I have a capture card, and it kinda works, but I'm not too sure on how to get a clean output through the HDMI port.
However, I'll definitely look into those things :D
As for the lens thing: I don't think I'll spend money on new lenses immediately, and if I was, I'd look for cheap used ones. I kinda wanna create art and not necessarily perfection, and also I don't like spending money xd
I think it's about finding character in the gear you have.
As mentioned in other comments, you can use a more appropriate aperture here because f14 is too small and you'll suffer from diffraction as a result.
The reason it's a problem, is similar to when you squint your eyes. The light gets spread more than is ideal and the image will have reduced sharpness.
Ideally, you should try not to go beyond f11, as that's usually where most lenses will start to become effected.
It's worth noting that despite this, if you need a small aperture then don't be afraid to use it. The reduction in sharpness won't really notice until you get to larger print sizes, such as 1 x 1.5 metres.
Even then, it's much better to have a great photo without ultimate sharpness, than a super sharp photo that's boring or just bad. If you have the time, such as with non moving subjects, none of these things should happen. If your subject is moving, things get complicated quickly.
Sorry to go on a bit, I just wanted to bring some context and info to the subject of diffraction, as it's an important one, but once you know the whys and wherefores it's easy be aware of and incorporate into your workflow.
I think at the time of taking the photo, I might have still believed that a larger F-Stop means the aperture is wider. But this comment section has taught me a lot since then!
Manual is great to learn about what's happening and why. Remember though, that once you have a good grasp of the technical aspects, you can then use that to make the camera do the work for you.
Canon cameras are particularly good at this, as they have a unique way of controlling the relationships between parts of those aspects. See the /v settings on the mode dial.
Once you have the camera doing stuff for you it starts to get out of the way and your mind becomes free of those distractions. Your photos will improve as a result.
Put in a radiant barrier.
A radiant barrier is a layer of metallic foil that reflects up to 96% of radiant heat, assisting in the energy performance of a building.
Oh, please. He's a marketer that mimics. It's a rinse repeat exploit that's paid well. He's like a super efficient Simon Cowell because he doesn't have to find people with a voice, just keep a close on upcoming artists, blatantly copy them, flog sales. And idiot fans marvel at his broad range in genre and sound like it comes from within lol
Edit: Oh, yeah, and then there's all the copyright issues he's constantly in when flying too close to the sun.
I mean, okay then, I'd say he's a talented musician who performs good music in an engaging style. Whereas Cordon has been regularly said to be an arse.
Like I say, suggesting that car would be an awful place to be feels harsh on Ed.
WAT? I've never heard a UPS referred to as "kinda like a bomb" before.
Keep your UPS maintained, replace the batteries when they age out, and it will be fine. If your UPS supports automated self-tests, use them.
My employer has UPS units spread all over the region we operate in, and we don't have any issues, despite leaving them mostly unattended for years. I have several in my house and I've never given them a second thought aside from battery replacements.
Line interactive basically means the battery will always be feeding the devices on UPS. Make sure you don’t go over the listed wattage. I learned the hard way and bought an under spec Tripplite, the battery kept dying. I now have a UPS specced out for my router and the Verizon box outside, not anything else on my rack. You should be fine, just saying in the future when you add devices, keep that in mind.
Slight clarification that you described a smart online ups. A line interactive device only supplements power grid with battery in order to keep a smooth 120v should it flutter, for ex if target voltage drops to prevent brownout conditions or fully kick over to battery if power goes out.
A smart online ups runs from the battery 24/7 and is back fed by the grid.
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