First off. This picture is vile and while I appreciate your need for assistance, you have ruined my day and I will be busy puking for the rest of the week.
To answer your actual question: I recommend just replacing it. Extra screen and cord is cheap and easy to install.
So I was playing around with some tweezers and it actually seems like I can peel it off with some difficulty, although it comes up in pieces. Considering none of my other screens look like this, I’m wondering if it is actually some sort of purposeful hazy coating that got destroyed over the years??? Is that a thing??? It only seems to be present on the inner surface of the screen, not the outer side. Scrubbing does nothing to it put it can be peeled off it seems. Just gonna take me forever to do.
This is a weird question, but I don't suppose this is near Baltimore, or a previous owner was from near Baltimore? They have (or had, not sure how popular it is anymore) a thing there, where they paint their screens with various scenes. It reduces visibility, so people can't see in as well, but still lets air in. So I'm wondering if this is a very dirty old painted screen, with maybe the pores clogged up.
I’m still trying to wrap my head around what it actually is. Never seen anything like this but just replace it. Perhaps update with a wider shot of the full screen panel
I didn’t bother posting a wide shot because you can’t tell what it is from so far away. It just looks like it’s hazy from dirt. But actually I was able to pick some small hunks off with tweezers and it has an appearance and consistency similar to dried glue. It’s slightly white and semitranslucent. It is also only present on the interior surface of the screen.
But as requested, here is a wider shot comparison of the normal unaffected screens (top) with the affected, coated screen (bottom). imgur.com/vurLJvw
My running theory is that something was glued to the screen at some point, perhaps to deflect sunlight. Or the screen was coated in something, maybe to try to further prevent the intrusion of bugs.
Why not just add a hatch to the box you considerd so you can open the box and access the valve? It shouldn't be too hard to find a prebuilt valve box that looks decent in your bathroom. Most I know are for outdoor applications but no reason why they can't be used indoors. And building it yourself also shouldn't be too hard.
To make it look even better you could also consider putting a removable shelf on top of the valve box. That way it's more hidden and you have a spot to put soaps or other bathroom essentials.
As a plumber this looks like a nightmare and the only solution in my eyes is remove more concrete and relocate that water line so you never have to deal with this again.
After making the floor/walls flush with the existing shower, I'd either:
use pvc glue to construct a pvc cover/box out of (relatively thick) white pvc sheet and corner profiles. Bolt cover to wall/floor. Use a rubber seal(thick white PTFE tape?)on all edges of the box to make it water tight once you clamp it down. (this is assuming you don't have a vacuum former, access to a 3d printer or are unable to find something to cannibalise)
tiled/grouted corner box with a little door. Tile door, thick white rubber tape and bolts to ensure it's a tight seal.
leave the pipe exposed, but replace the ugly industrial valve with a nice chromed (and therefore largely rust resistant) one like this.
To be honest, I'd go with the last option, but pop some extra silicone around where the pipe comes out of the wall/floor. That's another likely weakspot for rust.
The tiled concrete solution isn't bad, but I don't get whoever made it cheaped out on the valve.
e: oh and if there's the option to install the valve in the basement or somewhere else, I'd 100% go that way and remove this valve entirely.
In that case, I would assume they’re talking about how cold the incoming water would be.
I used a tankless in a zone five area where our incoming water in the winter was often below 60 degrees. You’ll have to compare the charts of input temp and output GPH to determine how it would work for your specific use case.
I used an indoor mounted one, but there are tankless models intended for places like CA and AZ where they can be mounted outside.
We liked the endless hot water - we only had one bath and three people, so we offer were bumping against the 60 gallons of our old tank model.
Our biggest issue is that we have a huge hot water heater that takes up a whole closet. We like to down size. An indoor one would be fine. What are zones?
That’s why we installed a tankless unit, it freed up an entire utility closet because we were able to tuck it in to a pretty small space while still respecting the required clearances. The only downside we’ve had was initial cost, and the yearly flushing process, which really isn’t bad if you install the correct valves from the beginning. Takes about 30 min. a year, which is worth it for endless hot water. Our gas bill has also been lower too.
This one’s certainly new.
They make specific valves for this purpose, which can be enclosed in concrete and where the cartridge can be replaced from the front without needing to break the concrete, with faucet cartridges like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HD6PX74/
Interesting concept. I’m glad to be aware of that option. However, I have very low confidence of any fitting that attaches to PEX. So I would still want the joint of the fitting relatively unburied as well. One side of the valve is galvanized pipe. I suppose I could replace the PEX with steel as well and then join the PEX to the steel under the showerpan. I’ll have to keep that in mind.
@Damage I’m tempted to get a valve with a replaceable cartridge even though I hope to make the fitting accessible anyway— just because it seems like a smarter design.
What do you call that kind of valve?
I tried an image search for “water valve with replaceable cartridge” & most hits were taps & shower mixers. A local shop had one that looked kind of like this. The lower portion was simpler, but the handle is the same. My concern is that the handle is designed for a human hand and I would actually be running a steel rod to the handle so I can control it from an adjacent room. Most valves seem to have a removable handle so you can easily attach a tool to it.
I would like to find one that has a removable handle and a removable cartridge for full versatility.
The closest thing I can think of is a disconnect. These basically are a box with a block that can be removed/flipped, generally seen on air conditioners. If you just took the block with you this would effectively stop them. If your kids are the kind to cause mischief, you can also padlock most of these styles of disconnects (and other styles of shutoffs).
If you have ever seen a “welder outlet” in an industrial setting, the switchbox/disconnect associated with it is basically what you are looking for. Has a handle you can lock out with a padlock
Someone else mentioned a breaker lockout which will absolutely do what you’ve asked.
A similar idea is to get plug lockouts. It goes over the plug of the tool/machine you want to prevent from being energized. This would let you keep power on but the tools can not be powered on.
You want to search for lockout and/or loto. You can get locks that use the same key too.
Do not rely on those plastic key things that some tool companies put on their machines. They are stupid easy to bypass.
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